From the Archives: Basic Painting Terms and Techniques
Transferring the Pattern: Our patterns are not intended to be templates. To keep your pattern in one piece, we recommend tracing your pattern directly onto the wood using Carbon or Graphite Paper with a stylus (or pencil if you don't mind pencil marks on your pattern).
Carbon Paper leaves a darker line than graphite. Graphite is lighter and also available in white for dark/stained woods.
For painted projects, trace your cut lines first, then cut, then you can prime and trace out the color placements from the pattern.
You should always prime painted projects whether indoor or outdoor.
You should always use a good non-yellowing sealer for outdoor projects.
Basecoating - Blocking in a color. Fill in the entire indicated area with paint. Wrap this color around the edges as well. Certain colors require more than one coat.
Float Shading - Use of an angular brush will make this step much easier. Wet your brush with clean water, touch the very tip of the brush to a paper town to pull the excess water from the brush. Touch only the very tip of the brush to the paint, then go back to the water, the touch once again to the paper towel. Now apply the paint to your surface. Your result should be a graduation of color, with one side deep in color fading to almost no color at all. It may take a little practice, but will give you a depth and 3-dimensional look you desire.
Stipple - Use an old worn brush. Use no water. Touch the brush to the paint, working it up the bristles. Scrub the excess paint into a paper towel until almost all of the paint is off. Tap the brush in a straight up and down motion and gradually add highlights. Build the color as needed, but do a little at a time.
Dry Brush - This is very similar to Stippling, but uses even less paint. This method is for very subtle shading and changes in color, such as in animals and birds. Use a very dry brush, as in stippling, but instead of tapping the brush up and down, rub the paint in a circular motion to softly blend the color into surrounding colors. Remember, it is easier to add more paint then to correct errors from using to much.
Line Work - Most of the line work is done with paint thinned to the consistency of ink. Use a very small brush, such as a 10/0 or 18/0 for this step. (NOTE: be careful not to add too much water!) Test the consistency on the palette or a scrap so that the color does not 'bleed' onto your design. If this does occur, however, immediately 'blot' the area with a paper towel. Do not rub. This will take most of the excess off. If the excess does not come off, allow to dry before you make the repair.